I while back I ordered up the engine mounts from Fury Sports Cars and other than taking them out the packet hadnt really done anything with them.
This weekend I decided to bite the bullet and get the engine properly mounted and drill some holes in the chassis mounting plates, and thats where I had a problem.
The horizontal line going across the rectangle is the centre point for the engine mounts. Now unfortunately that line was also dead centre one of the chassis members! So it turns out that the chassis mounts supplied were actually about an inch to short on the passenger side.
After some deliberation the easiest and simplest method of sorting this is to create a spacer moving the mount away from the engine. Otherwise its a cut and shut job with Mr welder and Mr grinder and to be perfectly honest I just cant be bothered!
Ive mocked one out of 19mm Mdf and it works perfectly so the next stage is to get some 20mm aluminium bar and make the real deal.
Picked up the pedals this morning. First thoughts are they are Significantly better made than the originals I have taken out. They were also much cheaper than the offering from OBP or Tilton, coming in at a reasonable £126 Inc P&P.
What I didn’t consider was that it wouldn’t come with a balance bar, so I shall see if the old one fits. If not I will get back in contact with Stephen and see whether he can knock me one up.
I also need to work out what master cylinder to use for the hydraulic clutch. If anyone has any suggestion please let me know.
Hopefully will try to see what the fitment etc is like early next week. In the mean time heres some photos….
Just got some of the rear suspension / axle bits back from the powder coaters. Decided I would get them done in satin rather than gloss, and I think it looks pretty good. Total cost..£30.
Also decided to replace all the bushes at the same time as they were puahong on for 15 years old! I decided to go with a direct replacement of the originals that Fisher fitted. I contacted Steve at fury sports cars and he wanted £12.00 ea. Instead I managed to track them down for a smidgen over £4.00ea from
The ones needed are BP636/2 which have a 1/2″ diameter centre hole. This then led to another conundrum…
Fisher have used 12mm bolts in 1/2″ holes, meaning that there is a bit of play in all the suspension components. No one knows why it was done this way, but it is well know within Sylva circles as an issue. A quick trip to the Bay of E and a 1/2″ hand reamer is on its way for a very reasonable £7.00 delivered.
When it arrives I’ll make all the suspension points on the chassis 1/2″ and place another order with Namrick to replace the 12mm bolts.
**Edited from 13mm to 12mm!
Finally sorted out some new bolts for the engine mounts, as I lost the original ones that came with the engine. I needed M10 x 30mm & one M10 x 50mm all in 1.25 pitch, which I managed to track down from http://www.namrick.co.uk. I ordered them Tuesday afternoon and they arrived Thursday,.so not to shabby.
This meant I was finally able to test fit the engine and see what space was going to be like.
It fits….just! There is a cross member on the left hand side of the chassis which I think is going to need moving backwards to allow the whole engine to come forwards by 50mm. Untill thats done the gearbox doesn’t quite fit, but it shouldnt be to big a job with my new found welding skills, and in between grinding welded rivet holes ill make that my next job.
I also spaced the engine mounts with some blocks of wood the same depth as the land rover rubbers ill be using. Im still worried about clearance on the sump, and might have to get someone to take an inch out of it at some point. I plan on running an external oil cooler so the lost capacity by cutting the sump should be retained in the oil cooler.
Another milestone today, spent the morning welding the rest of the rivet holes on the chassis, and they are now all done. Wahey!
First time I’ve welded outside, and being quite windy meant the gas wasn’t quite able to do its job. The welds are not that pretty and I’ve learnt that shielding the torch with your hand does nothing to improve the gas flow, but does lead to burns from the weld splatter. Never mind scars are cool… Aren’t they?
Having said that, by the time they’ve seen a flappy disc you won’t know the difference. And once it’s panelled you won’t know the difference anyway.
Seperate to that furyrebuild posted on locostbuilders about being able to make carbon panels in place of the aluminium ones. I’ve been in contact with him and will give him a ring in the week to discuss options, prices etc.
If you are interested in his progress check out http://www.furyrebuild.co.uk