Engine mount issue

I while back I ordered up the engine mounts from Fury Sports Cars and other than taking them out the packet hadnt really done anything with them.

This weekend I decided to bite the bullet and get the engine properly mounted and drill some holes in the chassis mounting plates, and thats where I had a problem.

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The horizontal line going across the rectangle is the centre point for the engine mounts. Now unfortunately that line was also dead centre one of the chassis members! So it turns out that the chassis mounts supplied were actually about an inch to short on the passenger side.

After some deliberation the easiest and simplest method of sorting this is to create a spacer moving the mount away from the engine. Otherwise its a cut and shut job with Mr welder and Mr grinder and to be perfectly honest I just cant be bothered!

Ive mocked one out of 19mm Mdf and it works perfectly so the next stage is to get some 20mm aluminium bar and make the real deal.

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Can you fit an engine by yourself?

The answer apparently is with great difficulty!! I had a spare hour yesterday so thought I would get the engine and gearbox in and mark out the mount holes ready to drill.

Being the time concious and efficient fellow I am, I thought the best course of action would be to join the engine and gearbox together a la…

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And let the whole lot slip easily into the engine bay. Turns out there isnt as much room to manoeuvre as I thought and I managed to get the whole lot wedged dramatically at an angle between the suspension and the transmission tunnel!

The even better part of this venture was that the engine which I thought was completely drained…clearly wasn’t! And whilst jammed at an angle decided to release a never ending flood of oil all over the garage floor.

In the end I gave in and split the whole assembly. And for anybody interested the method for fitting a zetec into a fury is as follows…

1. Gearbox into tunnel
2. Engine into bay
3. Attach engine to gearbox whilst still attached to crane
4. Attach engine Mounts
5. Finally lower into position

I now need to work out how far back I can mount the engine, before the clutch fork fouls the chassis. Overall not a particularly constructive hour… It does at least however all fit.

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ST power

Just a quick shot to show how the engine will fit. Im surprised how high the zetec engine is, however I test fitted the bonnet whilst my brother in law was over, and it all fits nicely.

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DIY Throttle Bodies

As mentioned previously I have been in contact with Jes for a few months about the inlet adapter plate he has designed to fit the 595 bodies to the klde head. He’s still ploughing on with the project, but unfortunately can’t commit to any completion dates at the moment.

So having had a massive burst of motivation sorting the interior panels I thought I would start having a go at doing a DIY inlet. This was also partly should the worst happen and projectJES doesn’t come to fruition I am not out on a limb with 0 form of induction.

I’ll pre empt this now, that this may not get finished …. if it does my intention is only to create a template I can pass to a laser cutter to cut the aluminium properly. On with the show:

1) Go to B&Q and blag some 1/2″ mdf offcuts for 50p.

2) Draw round your inlet manifold gasket and ITBs to get a basic working shape.
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3) Do some creative maths and add some dimensions to help with the placement of holes etc. Prior to this stage I tried drawing the holes using the ITBs as a template, but I just couldn’t get it accurate enough.  
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4) hold your breath and start drilling some holes..
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TO BE CONTINUED….

ITBs

With the engine fully built apart from some of the bolt on ancillaries I started to turn my attention to the throttle bodies.

The idea is to use 6 triumph 595 throttle bodies re-spaced to fit a custom inlet adapter plate.

If you buy the bodies from eBay they go for about £75 a set. So I scoured the triumph owners club forums and managed to grab two sets for £40 including postage.

Originally the manifold adapter was going to come from another member on locostbuilders, but they have proved impossible to get hold of, so ive had to make other arrangements.

Luckily whilst flicking through http://miata.net I found someone from the states who was developing exactly the same system with the triumph bodies. Step up….

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After exchanging a few emails with Jes at Warhorse im now on the list for one of the first prototype adapters, which should hopefully be here by September.

The CAD drawings look great, but I don’t think ill be utililising the idle control valve aspect due to Megasquirt being able to control “cold starts”

Heres some teasers….

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Engine mounts & test fit

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Finally sorted out some new bolts for the engine mounts, as I lost the original ones that came with the engine. I needed M10 x 30mm & one M10 x 50mm all in 1.25 pitch, which I managed to track down from http://www.namrick.co.uk. I ordered them Tuesday afternoon and they arrived Thursday,.so not to shabby.

This meant I was finally able to test fit the engine and see what space was going to be like.

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It fits….just! There is a cross member on the left hand side of the chassis which I think is going to need moving backwards to allow the whole engine to come forwards by 50mm. Untill thats done the gearbox doesn’t quite fit, but it shouldnt be to big a job with my new found welding skills, and in between grinding welded rivet holes ill make that my next job.

I also spaced the engine mounts with some blocks of wood the same depth as the land rover rubbers ill be using. Im still worried about clearance on the sump, and might have to get someone to take an inch out of it at some point. I plan on running an external oil cooler so the lost capacity by cutting the sump should be retained in the oil cooler.

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